The giving or receiving of a ring upon becoming betrothed goes back to the most ancient civilizations. However, these were usually just a simple band of metal rather than the elaborate gems modern brides consider today. The oldest known diamond rings was bestowed in 1477 by the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian to his fiancee, Mary of Burgundy. Diamonds were then very rare and only the richest could afford them. But during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the supply increased dramatically. Average income also increased during the Industrial Revolution. The combination of the two factors allowed diamonds to be purchased by more people.
Solitaire engagement rings are the most popular variety sold. The term technically refers to a ring with a single stone, regardless of cut. However, a round cut is the most common, although there are many different ways to mount it. The round cut is considered to be optimal for enhancing the reflective properties of a diamond.
A popular variation on the solitaire is the trilogy ring. This style has a large center stone with two smaller stones flanking it. These are normally all diamonds, but in recent times there have been many variations. Sometimes the center stone is a ruby, sapphire, or emerald. The bride’s birthstone is also sometimes used.
Some brides prefer an antique engagement ring. Most of these date from the turn of the nineteenth century through the 1950s, since any older than 50 years can be called an antique. The majority of these are diamonds. There are also many from the 1920s and 1930s made in the art deco manner that often use other gems as well. Rings that date back further than that may not use diamonds, especially those older than about 1700. Many of these are set with other precious gems, and may feature very intricate designs.
Princess cut engagement rings have been gaining in popularity in recent years. These diamonds are cut into a square shape and have a flat top. They are sometimes mounted flush with the band, but the typical mount places the prongs at the corners of the stone.
Rectangular cuts with flat tops and faceted sides are called emerald cuts. A marquis cut is round but tapers at both ends to points. Pears are round and large on one end with a sharp point at the other. Pears are seldom used as solitaires due to their awkward shape, but may be used with additional cuts of diamonds in a ring. However, they are more commonly used as settings for earrings and pendants.
It should come as no surprise that some of the modern ideas about diamonds are the result of advertising campaigns by jewelers. For example, the notion that a prospective groom spend two to three months’ salary on an engagement ring was a promotion by a major American jeweler. Nevertheless, diamonds have remained the most popular precious gem, and most women prefer diamond engagement rings. Size, cut, and mountings may, however, vary a great deal. But now that diamonds are plentiful, varied, and affordable, almost everyone can achieve her goal.